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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee renowned award-winning venues. However, situated near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

The little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. The accolade has left the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I’m completely surprised,” states a family member, referring to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their small restaurant earning such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its former charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this establishment more than excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s success is likely to resonate outside its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this culinary honour.